Good Pinot Noir requires a judicious measure of oak to frame the fruit and provide support, Quercas means oak, a reference to the essential influence of barrel age as it serves to coalesce all parts of the wine into a seamless, velvety experience. Pinot Noir also needs to articulate a sense of place, Bellvale's vines are trained to grow deep root systems, extracting the subtle locution of soil and infusing fruit with the unique expression of terroir. Quercas Vineyard makes a pastoral style, ripe with freshly picked cherry, savoury with barnyard and smoked, seasoned game.

$4299each $515DOZEN EACH DOZEN

Gippsland makes remarkable wines, the national flagship Pinot Noir hails from Leongatha, just a few minutes down the road from Bellvale. John Ellis chose his ground well, he established the first Cabernet vines in the prestigious New York Hamptons and worked vintages among the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy before settling amongst the dairy paddocks of Gippsland. Stony Block is Bellvale's finest parcel, a powerful yet elegant wine of intense pastoral gameyness, striking balance, exquisite length and captivating poise.

$4499each $539DOZEN EACH DOZEN

Amongst the many priceless bequeaths which are part of the Bests portfolio, are an 1868 planting of Pinot vines, probably established with a view to formulating luxury sparklings in the style of Champagne. A small parcel of Pinot Noir amongst the mostly Pinot Meuniere, later identified as a historically significant mix of Swiss and French clones, may very well be the oldest productive Pinot Noir vines in the world today. A pure bottling of these invaluable heirlooms, redolent of strawberries, powerful and intense, old vine Pinot of extraordinary elegance and finesse, silky of tannin and persistent in length.

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Brokenwood release two editions of Pinot Noir each vintage from the eminent Indigo Vineyard at Beechworth. There are a number blocks and clones on the property, the pick of crop is reserved for a single site bottling behind the Indigo moniker. Established in the 1990s after an exhaustive, nation wide search for the next great vineyard, Indigo is a source of fruit for the most demanding winemakers and prestigious labels. An effusively perfumed Pinot of generous proportions and juicy black fruit flavours, perfect for pink duck or maghrebi spiced tartare.

$6999each $839DOZEN EACH DOZEN An élevage of Pinot Noir clones 114, 115 and MV6. The quality of harvest at Indigo is always superior, even in average vintage years, the site was established from the ground up in the right way, making the job of preserving regional and varietal expression of the greatest import. Grapes are harvested and treated to several days of cold soak, a portion is included as whole bunches for complexity. Upon completion of ferments, batches are racked to a selection of predominantly seasoned French oak barriques for a year's maturation.

Medium red, purple hues. Fragrant Pinot Noir nose of cherries, red plums and rhubarb, sassafras and forest floor over a background of sweet oak. Soft entry to the palate on a length of compote berries and dried fruit richness, supported by a veneer of oak and ripe grape tannins. Already complex and ripe after a term of oak and bottle age, a suitable match to seared salmon, pancetta shards and morrell.

Attention to detail has always been at the centre of the Brokenwood ethos, in this case, an assemblage of three clones Pinot Noir, harvested off several individual blocks on the eminent Indigo Vineyard at Beechworth. Blessed by a confluence of oblique terrains, mineral soils and chilly climes, Beechworth represents the ideal home for the pastoral Pinot Noir. Structured, balanced and offering excellent weight of fruit, everything in the right place and in good order, splendid with the traditional accompaniement of duckling, steak tartare or salmon escalopes to suit.

$3399each $407DOZEN EACH DOZEN Keeping things labour intensive and maintaining attention to detail, are essential to retaining the integrity of Brokenwood. Retention of primary fruit character is the priority. Parcels of Beechworth Pinot Noir, with the inclusion of a portion whole bunches, are treated to a term of cold soak maceration. Upon completion of ferments, batches are filled to a selection of seasoned French oak barriques for a year's maturation.

Youthful purple colour. Great complexity to the bouquet, lifted red cherry fruit over earthy, savoury notes, seasoned by a touch of spiced oak sweetness. An exquisitely balanced palate, strawberries and framboise throughout, tomato leaf and thyme, supported by a length of ripe, pliant tannins before a lingering, fruit filled finish. Enjoy while young and fresh as a food friendly Pinot Noir.

$1999each $239DOZEN EACH DOZEN

For many years, Gary Farr followed up every vintage at Bannockburn with a tour of duty at Burgundy's Domaine Dujac. He believed Australian technology to be superior but was greatly inspired by the traditional practices of French vignerons. Farr brought home the ancient technique of pigeage, throwing whole bunches into large, open vats and immersing his body into the wine to break up any hot spots. A weighty Pinot wine, Farrside combines density and precision with a capacity to endure and evolve.

$7799each $935DOZEN EACH DOZEN Gary Farr planted Pinot Noir clones 114 and 115, 113 and 667, 777 and MV6 in 2001. The Farside Vineyard's black volcanic soils yield a cogent, masculine Pinot wine.Vines on the northeast facing slopes of Farrside are grown to a thin layer of rich volcanic soils over limestone, planted east to west so that grapes receive some cover from the sun. Farrside makes wines of greater structure, tannin and savouriness. Farr chose his ground carefully, to compare favourably alongside some of the finest Pinot Noir growing terroirs in the world. A patient man, Farr aspired to owning the seven hectare property for a very long time but it's owner resisted all temptation to part with the land for over twenty years.

Deep crimson red colour. A rich, full nose exhibiting floral Pinot characters and powerful berry fruits which build and develop as the wine breathes. The palate offers sweetness of fruit with overtones of minerality enhanced by toasty oak. Fine tannins and great structure are a trademark of Farr, fine texture and savouriness complete the gem.

$10799each $1295DOZEN EACH DOZEN

One of Australia's salient, small batch winemakers, Gary Farr has always aspired to formulate the ultimate Pinot wine. He may be very close. Gary Farr's style is traditional and essentially Burgundian, employing natural yeasts and whole bunch ferments, he insists on cork. A wine of exceptional balance and finesse, seamless from fragrance to finish, Farr was inspired after reading the Da Vinci Code, to annoint this superlative cuvee Sangreal. As the estate vineyards continue to mature, the holy grail of Gary Farr Pinot Noir comes within closer reach.

$7899each $947DOZEN EACH DOZEN The By Farr vineyards are planted to a mixture of Pinot Noir rootstock and clones. The aspect of the vineyard is north to northeast and quite undulating. The soil is volcanic loam over limestone, in some sites the limestone dominates the loam, well drained and of low fertility. They compare well with the best sites for Pinot Noir anywhere in the world. Farr applies techniques he learned in France, whole bunches with stalks fermented in large, open, cylindrical vats. The traditional process requires him to immerse his body into the wine and to break up the hot spots which occurr in this uneven and ancient form of vinculture. This method called pigeage is practised in the production of the great burgundies.

Deep scarlet colour. Great perfume on the nose, fine well integrated fruit of highly complex red berries and subtle toasted oak. Perfumed but savoury, the essence of Pinot Noir from a precious site. Rich flavoursome palate, showing weight, true length and depth. Seamless in its delivery and a joy to drink, velvety, generous, seamless in its delivery, currants and plum fruit balancing the animal character. Flavoursome and compelling, yet acquiescent and accomodating, the aficianado's style of Pinot, gamey and moreish.