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The Lessona castleworks and cellar have been at the epicentre of a salubrious winemaking enterprise since the 1700s, they fell derelict in the 1970s and remained unproductive until 1999. The costly restoration was a labour of love for Dr Marchi, who returned to his family estate with a view to re establishing one of Piedmont's most cherished marques. Sperino Lessona is a remarkably generous Nebbiolo wine, led by its pretty rose petal and mint chocolate nose, followed by a refreshing market garden palate of intensely aromatic black bramble fruit.

$10099each $1211DOZEN EACH DOZEN When Paolo and Luco De Marchi returned to their family roots at Lessona on Via Orolungo in 1999, the distinguished old vines had become overgrown by weeds and vegetation. Reclaiming the stately old vineyards is an ongoing effort, recreating the glory of Piedmontese viticulture. Once a principle source for Italy's finest wines, the challenging terrains of Piedmont were abondoned for more favourable climes to the south. Hand picked parcels of Nebbiolo are sorted to ensure quality of the harvest, destemmed and gently pressed. A wild yeast vinification in traditional open vat fermenters is followed by twenty months sur lie and an extravagant forty months in a selection of well seasoned oaks.

Sperino are a noble family of surgeons and physicians, like many medicos around the world, they shared a keen interest in things oenological. Their heirs returned to their roots at the Castle of Lessona in 1999, to grow healthy grapes and make good wine. Coste della Sesia is mostly Nebbiolo, with inclusions of Vespolina and Croatina grapes, hand picked off the Ormeggio, Castagnola and Belvedere vineyards at Lessona in Orolungo. A parcel from Madonna degli Angeli in neighbouring Forte, contributes savouryness and a measure of elegant minerality.

$5599each $671DOZEN EACH DOZEN Fruit is harvested off vines grown to altitudes of 290 to 420 metres, planted to a mix of mineral rich marine sands and igneous rock, glacial sediments and pebbled clays. Grapes are all hand picked and sorted over a conveyer belt, destemmed and gently pressed into traditional, open top oak fermentation vats. Eighteen days of wild indigenous yeast vinifications are treated to regular punch downs and cap turnovers, followed by a post ferment maceration of ten months on gross sedimentery lees. Upon completion, batches are gravity filled to a mix of oak barriques and larger format fifteen hectolitres oak casks for a further twenty two months maturation.

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Blackwell is sourced exclusively from sloped vineyards around the north and west of Barossa Valley, precincts which yield small harvests of exceptionally concentrated Shiraz grapes. The focus is on preserving freshness and purity of these extraordinarily intense, dark fruit expressions, while retaining perfect tannin balance in the finished wine. The northern hamlets of Kalimna and Ebenezer contribute juicy dark fruit and rich mocha flavours, while parcels from western districts such as Seppeltsfield give Blackwell it's muscular, brooding structure.

$6099each $731DOZEN EACH DOZEN Established 1944 at the very heart of Barossa Valley, the St Hallett wineworks, one of the region's most formidable labels, attracts fruit from the most distinguished growers in the ancient winegrowing hamlets of Kalimna and Ebenezer, Krondorf and Gomersal, Seppeltsfield and Marananga. Shiraz is picked at full ripeness to capture concentration of flavour, vibrant tannin structure and a dense, inky colour. Each parcel is individually crushed and vinified in a collection of old, traditional open fermenters. Upon completion, batches are matched to one of a selection of American oak barrels for two years maturation, gaining considerable texture and power prior to release.

Garnet red colour. Bouquet speaks volumes, dark fruits of brooding intensity, elegant blueberry and mint perfumes, pure opulence expressing the intensity and inky density of the wine. The palate unleashes dense, rich, dark chocolate and a powerful array of dark blackberry fruit flavours. A focused multi dimensional wine of backbone, scope and breadth. Serve with anything, Blackwell matches all good food.

A national flagship wine, articulating the concordance between the Barossa and Eden Valleys, derived from low yielding vines up to a hundred years of age. The meticulous nurture and respect for these Old Vines demands that parcels are culled throughout the winemaking, from pruning in the vineyard until the final stage of sampling the ageing stocks, to determine the best barrels. Old sites in the warm nether parts of the Barossa establish the rich foundation, whilst higher, cooler aspects of the Eden Valley contribute lifted aromatics and seamless tannins.

$17699each $2123DOZEN EACH DOZEN Each parcel is crushed into a fermenter and inoculated by select cultures. Each batch is vinified separately at controlled temperatures of 20C to 24C. Ferments are managed with pumpovers and drain returns to aerate as much as possible during the early stages, enhancing colour, flavour and tannin extraction. Parcels are pressed off skins into oak before beeing seeded with malolactic, a bacterial culture which converts natural malic acid to lactic acid, softening and stabilising the wine microbiologically. Each parcel is then assigned the most appropriate selection of seasoned and new, ancient French oak forest barrels. After twenty months maturation, the aged stocks are sampled to determine the final assemblage.

Deep crimson red. Powerful lifted aromas of mocha and dark chocolates, intertwined with soft, underlying dark berry fragrances. The palate oozes classic Old Block fruit, swirling the wine in the glass gives that sense of comfort as the enormous brooding complexity edifies. Rich dark fruits, blackcurrant and boysenberry with smooth chocolate textures, sensual tannins and a persistence of flavour. Decant for two to three hours before serving alongside venison or game.

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There are a few parcels of Shiraz on the Lubiana property which lend themselves very nicely, to the finely boned styles of Cotes du Rhone. Selection of fruit is the genesis, the manner of vinification plays an essential role. The timing of macerations are cardinal to the extraction of fruit, building velvet texture and infusing fine tannin, ferments for the most part, must be carried out without moving or disturbing the wine as it evolves. A judicious term in fine French oak has trimmed and shaped the palate to perfection, Stefano recommends smoked meats, suckling pig sausages or quail in pancetta and polenta.

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